5 Days in Paris: Icons, Neighbourhoods & Versailles

The postcard Paris of the Left Bank riverfront.

1. Morning

   Trocadero

   Open at the Trocadero gardens for the definitive Eiffel Tower view, best in the soft morning light.

2. Late Morning

   Eiffel Tower

   Ascend the tower or linger on the Champ de Mars beneath it; either way, book a time slot in advance.

3. Midday

   Pont Alexandre III

   Walk the Seine to the city's most ornate bridge, gilded with cherubs and lamps, for a slower riverside stretch.

4. Lunch

   Chez L'Ami Jean

   Squeeze into the boisterous Basque-leaning bistro near the Invalides for one of the Left Bank's great meals.

5. Afternoon

   Musee d Orsay

   Give the afternoon to the Impressionists, Van Gogh, and Degas in the luminous old station hall.

6. Evening

   The Seine and its bridges

   Take an evening Bateaux-Mouches cruise to see the monuments lit and the tower sparkle on the hour.

The Right Bank's royal core of museums and gardens.

1. Morning

   Louvre Museum

   Arrive at opening to see the headline works before the crush; a planned route through a wing or two is plenty.

2. Late Morning

   Jardin des Tuileries

   Decompress in the formal gardens between the Louvre and Concorde, past fountains and Maillol bronzes.

3. Lunch

   Verjus

   Book the intimate wine bar and dining room tucked near the Palais Royal for inventive small plates.

4. Afternoon

   Jardin du Palais Royal

   Slip into the serene arcaded garden and Buren's striped columns, one of central Paris's quietest surprises.

5. Late Afternoon

   Place de la Concorde

   Take in the obelisk and fountains where the city's grandest axis meets the Seine at golden hour.

6. Evening

   Frenchie

   Dine at Gregory Marchand's bistro on the pedestrian Rue du Nil, a fixture of modern Paris cooking.

Medieval Paris on the Seine's two islands and the Left Bank around them.

1. Morning

   Sainte-Chapelle

   Enter early, before the tour groups, to have the upper chapel's wall of stained glass nearly to yourself.

2. Late Morning

   Notre-Dame Cathedral

   Admire the restored Gothic facade and gargoyles from Square Jean XXIII, the best angle on the Ile de la Cite.

3. Lunch

   Ile Saint-Louis

   Cross to the smaller island for lunch on the quays and a walk past its 17th-century mansions.

4. Afternoon

   Latin Quarter

   Explore the 5th's Roman lanes, Shakespeare and Company, and the market street of Rue Mouffetard.

5. Late Afternoon

   Pantheon

   Finish atop the great dome for a sweeping view over the Left Bank rooftops toward the tower.

6. Evening

   Bistrot Paul Bert

   Head east for a quintessential bistro dinner of steak-frites and a chalkboard of natural wines.

The artists' hill and the elegant department-store district below it.

1. Morning

   Sacre-Coeur and Montmartre

   Ride the funicular up to the white basilica, then wander to Place du Tertre and the vineyard beyond the crowds.

2. Late Morning

   Rue de l'Abreuvoir

   Photograph Montmartre's prettiest lane and La Maison Rose before descending the village stairs.

3. Lunch

   Cedric Grolet Opera

   Queue for the pastry chef's trompe-l'oeil fruit creations near the Opera, a sweet Parisian ritual.

4. Afternoon

   Palais Garnier

   Tour the gilded opera house, its grand staircase and Chagall ceiling, an icon of Second Empire Paris.

5. Late Afternoon

   Galeries Lafayette Haussmann

   End under the stained-glass dome and on the free rooftop terrace as the light fades over the city.

6. Evening

   Bouillon Chartier

   Round off with hearty, affordable classics in the landmarked 1896 dining hall.

The Sun King's palace and gardens, an easy train ride from the city.

1. Morning

   Palace of Versailles

   Take the RER C early and enter the State Apartments before midday; the Hall of Mirrors is the unmissable centrepiece.

2. Late Morning

   Hall of Mirrors

   Walk the 73-metre gallery where seventeen mirrored arches face the garden windows, dazzling on a bright day.

3. Lunch

   Gardens of Versailles

   Picnic or grab a bite by the Grand Canal, then explore Le Notre's endless geometric parterres and fountains.

4. Afternoon

   Estate of Trianon

   Escape the crowds at the Grand and Petit Trianon and Marie-Antoinette's storybook hamlet.

5. Evening

   Arc de Triomphe

   Back in Paris, climb the arch at dusk and stroll the Champs-Elysees before a relaxed dinner nearby.