01

Day 01

Day 1: Medina Core

The medina core on foot: Koutoubia, souks, spice square, madrasa, a secret garden and Jemaa el-Fnaa after dark.

1. Morning

   Koutoubia Mosque

   Start beneath the Koutoubia minaret, the twelfth century Almohad tower that sets the pattern for mosques from here to Seville. The interior is closed to non Muslims, but the gardens, rose beds and orange trees make a serene opening before you turn into the markets.

2. Late Morning

   Souk Semmarine

   Plunge into Souk Semmarine, the spine of the covered markets. Lantern makers, leather workshops, textile stalls and slipper sellers crowd the shaded lanes. Let yourself get pleasantly lost, follow the light through the reed roofs, and practise the friendly art of bargaining before lunch.

3. Lunch

   Cafe des Epices, Rahba Kedima

   Pause at Cafe des Epices on Rahba Kedima, the old spice and apothecary square. From the rooftop you look over baskets of dried roses, cumin and ginger while sipping mint tea. Simple sandwiches and salads recharge you for the afternoon.

4. Afternoon

   Ben Youssef Madrasa

   Walk north to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, once the largest Quranic school in North Africa. Its serene courtyard pool, carved cedar galleries and intricate stucco reward slow attention. Climb to the tiny student cells upstairs for a sense of centuries of scholarship.

5. Late Afternoon

   Le Jardin Secret

   Duck into Le Jardin Secret off the busy Mouassine street. This restored riad complex pairs an Islamic paradise garden with an exotic garden, fed by the old khettara water system. Benches, birdsong and a tower view offer a cool break from the lanes.

6. Evening

   Jemaa el-Fnaa

   End at Jemaa el-Fnaa as dusk falls and the square ignites. Grill stalls send up smoke, Gnaoua musicians drum, and storytellers gather their circles. Grab skewers and a bowl of harira, or watch it all from a surrounding terrace above the crowd.

02

Day 02

Day 2: Southern Palaces and the New City

The southern palaces and tombs, the Mellah, then a crossing to the Majorelle garden and dinner in Gueliz.

1. Morning

   Bahia Palace

   Open with the Bahia Palace, a grand nineteenth century vizier's residence. Follow the sequence of courtyards, painted ceilings and zellij salons designed to dazzle. The name means brilliance, and the marquetry, carved plaster and quiet garden riads live up to it.

2. Late Morning

   El Badi Palace

   Cross to the ruined El Badi Palace, built by the Saadian sultan Ahmad al Mansur with gold and Italian marble. Storks nest on its towering rammed earth walls above sunken orange groves. Climb the ramparts for wide views over the Kasbah rooftops.

3. Lunch

   Cafe Clock, Kasbah

   Break for lunch at Cafe Clock in the Kasbah, a cultural cafe known for its camel burger and its calendar of concerts and storytelling. The rooftop is a relaxed perch between the two great palaces, and the atmosphere is young and welcoming.

4. Afternoon

   Saadian Tombs

   Visit the Saadian Tombs, sealed for centuries and rediscovered in 1917. The Chamber of the Twelve Columns, with its Carrara marble and honeycomb muqarnas, shelters the sultan's family. The garden graves of soldiers and servants surround this jewel of a mausoleum.

5. Late Afternoon

   Jardin Majorelle

   Taxi north to the Jardin Majorelle, the cobalt blue villa and botanical garden created by Jacques Majorelle and later saved by Yves Saint Laurent. Bamboo groves, cacti and lily pools frame the vivid walls. The Berber Museum inside deepens the visit.

6. Evening

   Grand Cafe de la Poste, Gueliz

   Finish with dinner at the Grand Cafe de la Poste in Gueliz, a colonial era brasserie of ceiling fans and leather banquettes. It is a fitting way to feel the new city's mood after a day among older stones and gardens.